Day 12 - Niznhy Novgorod - Arzamas - Niznhy Novgorod, the real Russia

The wonderful women of Niznhy

3,286 Miles GMT +4 Temp -16

If we had gone for the rip off charter train we could no doubt press a buzzer for morning coffee, but we didn’t. I lost the consequent coin toss, so swapped my sleeping bag for my boots. Lena and Anya querying I dare go down the carriage to the hot water boiler before getting dressed. I don't do formal before caffeine, just fur hat, tartan pyjamas and thermals – you can take the girl out of North Shields but …………

The view from the Nizhny Kremlin

We left the train at Niznhy Novgorod Russia's 4th largest city, formerly know as 'Gorky' and a closed city until 1990. It was so secret they didn't publish street maps inside Russia until 1973. It’s a major centre for manufacturing, however it does have a Kremlin, a museum to famous son, writer Maxim Gorky, as well as one to Andrei Sakharov, the scientist who was exiled to the city for speaking against the Soviet regime, so a few hours was fine. Both museums were interesting, but unfortunately no photos allowed inside. 

There is a town not too far from here, Sarov, known as Arzamas-16 between 1946-1991, which is still closed to foreigners, as it remains the base for nuclear development, know as ‘Los Aramoz’, as it is twinned with Los Alamos in New Mexico, which is the American centre for Nuclear research.

From Nizhny we took a local train to Arzamas, (the non-nuclear town), We came across a small art studio. We met Artem the artist, who was interesting, charming and very talented. He invited us to stay for coffee as he is learning English. We asked if there was anything to do or see in the town as we had an hour or two to spare, he told us about the mines and caves on the edge of the town and drew us a map.

Artem working in his studio

Yelena in the mines ........shades of Tomb Raider, Lara Crofski?

We found the mines and caves, 100 rubles each got us hard hats and head torches, Victor switched on the lights and told use to stay on the lit path. No Health and Safety here then. It was amazing inside, there are lots of different mines in the Ural area as it is rich in lots of different minerals and metals.

Back in Niznhy we’ve been to a fantastic market, which has a lot of small stalls where local women sell their own produce. Bottled, pickled, baked, you name it they do it, so we have a picnic for dinner tonight on the train. Lena asked one of the ladies, another Yelena, if she could recommend somewhere for a late lunch and she sent us to café where her sister was the cook, “tell her I sent you”. We did and ‘Katya’ refuelled us with a mountain of ‘Plov’, a Russian Pilaf, followed by dried apple and apricots stewed in honey and vodka. The total bill was less than £5, so well left a good tip. 

Niznhy Station mural

Lena has told me wages and the cost of living outside of St Petersburg and Moscow are low. Most Russians will have a second job, or have some sort of way of supplementing their income – ‘commissions’ for the train staff and anyone else who offers a service. Around the stations women stand on the platforms selling food. In the summer they also sell souvenirs, but not a Matryoshka doll in sight today. 

Niznhy Cathedral

We are currently sitting in a bar near the main station, waiting for our next train to Perm and should arrive there tomorrow in time for breakfast. Beer is cheap, jukebox hilarious and you can buy Radish flavoured crisps.

I am not finding the weather too difficult, but I expect it to get a lot colder than it is at present. Sun cream and sunglasses are the order of the day outside, as the glare and the wind are worse than the cold.

Pics in the gallery are now updated.