Sunday 13 February 2011

Day 1. North Shields - Newcastle - Kings Cross - M&S - St Pancras - Brussels - Cologne - Warsaw

To infinity and beyond.........







Well managed the metro, no crowd to see me off, that was the queue for the taxi rank, and the smokers from the amusement arcade, about as far removed from Phileas Fogg and the Reform Club as kippers are from caviar, but that’s North Shields, my home town.
Travelling quite light with, my camera bag, a backpack and Tiny Clanger who is being sponsored for Comic Relief
I left North Shields at 10am,and be on my over-night sleeper train to Warsaw by 22.30 
First of many cups of coffee on the way to London, wondering how many to Vladivostok - doesn't bear thinking about if it all tastes like British Rail.
I’ve only purchased my tickets as far as Brussels, and my Vilnius to St Petersburg ticket, the rest will be bought as and when, as it's cheaper to buy at the station unlike our glorious country and needless to say there is a much simpler format for tickets. To say nothing of the fact that snow does not bring the rail network to stand still. The Tran-Siberian leg of the journey can be done independently, and the many charter companies running organised tours may well offer luxury, and optional extras, but they certainly know what to charge for it. I was quoted in excess of £2000 for the Moscow to Vladivostok leg of the journey, which included five nights in hotels at various stops. Lena and I worked out that we could actually do it for around 35% of that cost, by doing it independently, staying well clear of 4* hotels and taking full advantage of the discounts offered on Russian trains during the winter. I’ve rented apartments in St Petersburg and Moscow (laterooms.com, I never use any other website), Lena is handing the accommodation once out of Moscow and has told me she has a surprise or two in store, and if possible I should bring some typically British goodies to offer to our hosts – hence my journey taking a brief stop at M&S - shortbread, marmalade, mustard, Stilton, etc etc.
Betjeman at St Pancras

Eurostar with a glass of champagne, so bourgeois, it will probably be Yak milk by the end of the journey, which will no doubt still be an improvement on East Coast Coffee. 

I had 2 hours in Brussels, just long enough to stretch my legs, practice my French, buy some chocolate for my friends, and find the Belgian Comics museum. Alas the latter was closed, so no meeting with Tin Tin and snowy for Tiny. 
The high speed Inter-City Express to Cologne, wow what a sexy train for all you anoraks out there, very comfortable and very quick. I was kind of dozing off nicely until a French speaking couple decided to have full-blown domestic three rows away from me. They were on the wrong train and Madame was berating Monsieur with some serious insults. The best part was when she finally calmed down and stopped shouting, he suggested that a weekend in Cologne could be more fun than Paris – she went ballistic. It was far more entertaining than an in-flight movie.

I arrived at Cologne at 20:16, only one minute late. I had another couple of hours to fill before my overnight sleeper to Warsaw, which I filled with a visit to the cathedral. It’s a gothic style building that would dwarf Durham cathedral. The building was started in 1240, and with various interruptions, was not completed until 1880. It’s been designated a Unesco World Heritage site and described as "exceptional work of human creative genius", which I wouldn’t argue with as it definitely has the ‘X’ factor. The Cathedral contains the ‘Shrine of the Magi’, which is a large gold sarcophagus that reputedly hold the remains and clothing of the 3 wise men and is the largest reliquary in the western world. Quite stunning, even to a heathen non-believer like me.
Just waiting for my overnight train to Warsaw now and looking forward to some sleep, so I hope that there’s nobody on the wrong train this time.
Apologies for not posting earlier - technical problems. Shall bring things up to date this evening. 

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