Wednesday 16 March 2011

Day 31 - Ulan Ude - Camping in Buryatia


Trotsky the snowman


6,541 Miles GMT +9 Temp -11

After a very beautiful journey this morning we arrived in Ulan Ude, the capitol of the Buryat Republic. Before we stepped off the train it’s apparent were in a Mongolian influenced area, from the people we see and the dress they wear, to the Gers and herding horsemen. Lena had already told us on the train that we’re staying somewhere out of the ordinary – oh god not another soviet hotel went though our minds. However, the taxi we are waiting for turns out to be a motor sledge with trailer, and 40 minutes later we arrive at our accommodation, A Buryat Ger, which is a type of yurt. “Camping G, you said you liked camping”. 
Inside the Guest Ger

Togo and his wife Khisghee are our hosts, and settled us into our yurt, gave us the low down on our stay. The Ger is fab, there’s a stove in the centre for warmth and boiling a kettle, and only a few yards away outside there’s a Banya, and a few yards past that there a toilet block, a bath house and a shower house – all very western and welcome. 
Our hosts Togo and Khisgee
 
We were introduced to their children, Otto, Nara and Togon who are just the sweetest kids. They took us to meet the rest of their family tugging at our hands, and then to see their animals. We built a snowman with them which they thought was hilarious and we had great fun dressing him up. Khisghee asked us if we wanted to go riding with her father, which proved to be interesting as it wasn’t on horses but camels. Not an altogether pleasant experience, but our half hour kept the kids entertained. In return they came back to the Ger and taught us a game played with sheep bones, before relieving Lena of her stash of chocolate.
Nara

Togon

Otto

A Buryat bbq for dinner, together with the Katie and Max from New Zealand, who are on their honeymoon doing the Trans Siberian in the opposite direction to us. They’re going straight Moscow, so temping to tell them they’re missing the bits, but their choice. We were entertained by traditional Buryat dance and music, which is very colourful and different. Buryat throat singing is something that just beggars belief. Normally I expect one note from a voice, but somehow they can produce up to four, it’s very strange. I found some on Youtube so you can listen here

Meanwhile a vicious storm going on in the evening. We could hear the animals all creating various sounds and hail pounding on the roof. Not much point in trying to sleep, it’s a bit like a heavy metal concert.
Wild night in Buryatia

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