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Trotsky the snowman |
6,541 Miles GMT +9 Temp -11
After a very beautiful journey this morning we
arrived in Ulan Ude, the capitol of the Buryat Republic. Before we stepped off
the train it’s apparent were in a Mongolian influenced area, from the people we
see and the dress they wear, to the Gers and herding horsemen. Lena had already
told us on the train that we’re staying somewhere out of the ordinary – oh god
not another soviet hotel went though our minds. However, the taxi we are
waiting for turns out to be a motor sledge with trailer, and 40 minutes later
we arrive at our accommodation, A Buryat Ger, which is a type of yurt. “Camping
G, you said you liked camping”.
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Inside the Guest Ger |
Togo and his wife Khisghee are our hosts, and
settled us into our yurt, gave us the low down on our stay. The Ger is fab,
there’s a stove in the centre for warmth and boiling a kettle, and only a few
yards away outside there’s a Banya, and a few yards past that there a toilet
block, a bath house and a shower house – all very western and welcome.
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Our hosts Togo and Khisgee |
We were introduced to their children, Otto, Nara and
Togon who are just the sweetest kids. They took us to meet the rest of their
family tugging at our hands, and then to see their animals. We built a snowman
with them which they thought was hilarious and we had great fun dressing him
up. Khisghee asked us if we wanted to go riding with her father, which proved
to be interesting as it wasn’t on horses but camels. Not an altogether pleasant
experience, but our half hour kept the kids entertained. In return they came back
to the Ger and taught us a game played with sheep bones, before relieving Lena
of her stash of chocolate.
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Nara |
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Togon |
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Otto |
A Buryat bbq for dinner, together with the
Katie and Max from New Zealand, who are on their honeymoon doing the Trans
Siberian in the opposite direction to us. They’re going straight Moscow, so
temping to tell them they’re missing the bits, but their choice. We were
entertained by traditional Buryat dance and music, which is very colourful and
different. Buryat throat singing is something that just beggars belief.
Normally I expect one note from a voice, but somehow they can produce up to
four, it’s very strange. I found some on Youtube so you can listen here
Meanwhile a vicious storm going on in the evening.
We could hear the animals all creating various sounds and hail pounding on the
roof. Not much point in trying to sleep, it’s a bit like a heavy metal concert.
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Wild night in Buryatia |
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