Friday 4 March 2011

Day 21 - Omsk, it wasn't named after a womble




Approaching Omsk


4,681 Miles GMT +7hrs Temp -16


A lot of the buildings are nondescript, presumably built in the soviet era, one or two very old timber typical Siberian buildings remain, but looking slightly the worse for wear. We took refuge from the cold briefly in the Dostoyevsky literature museum. Lena and Anya were allowed in but I’m not because I have a camera, and the museum keeper is obviously a stickler for rules, as its in a my bag. “But you have camera, not allowed in with camera” Lena interprets. He won’t allow me to give him the bag either, so I told them to go ahead, while I walk up and down outside. They weren’t in there for long. When I asked if there was anything interesting Lena told me they had some drawings by Dostoyevsky, but quickly adds “It’s a good job he could write, because he couldn’t draw”

We did the local art gallery, which looks a little tired but there are some really interesting paintings, all by Russian artists. Alas no photographs and no postcards. We then move to the Liberov Centre, which celebrates the life and works of a Siberian artist A N Liberov, a folk painter who was I’m informed is the master of the Siberian landscape. I liked his work but again, no photographs and no postcards. 

Omsk Station

Lunch was in one of the bars that appear to occupy one in three of every building, in the area. Apparently Omsk is kind of a dormitory town, with many people working out in the mines, forests and oil fields further away, its quiet during the week but at weekends it becomes the wild East.

We walked through the park and the military hardware as Lena described it in her childhood is still in evidence here too, a tank here, a rocket launcher there, even a fighter plane. This city was closed to anyone but residents and military staff here, due to the concentration of military enterprises. This is a city with the population and the land coverage of the whole of Tyneside - and they closed it. It’s inconceivable to me.

Uspensky Cathedral, Omsk
Cathedral interior

Our final stop was at the Cathedral. The original building, consecrated in 1896, was demolished during the Soviet era, but was rebuilt in the 1990’s although I would never have guessed. We had a look inside and priest appeared, he was very welcoming and told us about the building and the icons.

Our hotel is called the Hotel Ural, We’ve nicknamed it the urinal as it’s grim, no carpet, nylon sheets and there is no hot water between 10pm and 7am. Beware 2* hotels in Russia. Don’t even think of a 1*, it’s probably the back of a Lada. 

2* discomfort

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